Ackermann autumn/winter 2013
To the sound of clomping jackboots cut with sad-moment piano, Ackermann presented a military-tinted, herringbone heavy variation of his trademark tailoring.
Exposed, blackened roots pulled taut under a tortuously tangled peroxide blonde birds nest that led to a Findus ponytail. The hair at Haider Ackermann - as Charlie Harrington of Stella so wisely observed after his show this morning - was just the kind of visual tiger trap to beguile a no-clue picture editor into listing this collection in a page-filler punk trend collage for next winter.
To the sound of clomping jackboots cut with sad-moment piano, Ackermann presented a military-tinted, herringbone heavy variation of his trademark tailoring. The tricksily-ornamented jacquard suits were, as ever, impressive and elegant. His campaign to create the perfect jacket extended into grey flannelly versions with epaulettes, or drab green with rich purple underfolds at the hip. There was lots of sheepskin, particularly high-backed aviator styles which were teamed with odd but effective misshaped short trousers.But Haider's hair was more nuanced than that. It signified post-apocalypse, not punk. Ackermann likes to paint a mood, to direct a context, and today his girls were heroines looking for warmth in a nasty, hard world full of dry ice - a bit like the Pipes of Peace video.
Ackermann's Spielberg-overstated production told us that here were clothes for a misunderstood heroine, bravely marching into an uncertain future on four inch heeled, ruched knee-boots, and seeking solace in the embrace of an voluminous brown beaver greatcoat. The audience adored, and stood to whoop.
No comments:
Post a Comment