“Issa felt like a riff on Seventies Saint Laurent… Todd Lynn’s tailoring came alive because it was in putty and postman-blue… it’s been so refreshing to see colour after such an abundance of black in NYC,” said Neiman Marcus’ senior vice-president and fashion director, Ken Downing.
London’s palette, though colourful overall, is very view-from-the-Shard: misty with a hint of blue/grey/lilac/lichen and creamy white. Or equally natural and a bit foggy-grey, punched up by scarlet (Unique, Holly Fulton), burnt orange (Jonathan Saunders, right) and candy-floss pink (J JS Lee), like a
Turner painting. And even colour-loving Matthew Williamson was inspired by nature, albeit the natural but extraordinary phenomena of the aurora borealis.
Not that black or white – or both – aren’t off the radar in London (see Preen, Mary Katrantzou and more). But London has made colour its own.
“What’s been going on in colour, possibly started by Céline, is the idea that a winter coat doesn’t have to be black any more,” says Vogue fashion director Lucinda Chambers. “Fashion seems to be becoming seasonless. People buy what they fall in love with. Because of the shake-up with print, none of the London designers is afraid of colour. And now they are experimenting with embellishment. It’s no longer just about black; for that, London has been liberating.”
Of course, there are modern issues for black. “It doesn’t show up on Instagram very well,” says The Daily Telegraph’s Tamsin Blanchard. “Also, everyone’s such a show-off these days. Just walking down the ramp to the Unique show and looking at the bloggers all wearing bright colours, it was like, ”Here I am! Look at me!”
No comments:
Post a Comment